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32). 41 e twopage frontispiece from the fourth volume portrays a male figure, possibly the artist himself, drawing a kimono design with a brush (illus. 42 To the right of the artist is a colophon that can be roughly translated as ‘Just as you prefer’, with a woman beside him responding, ‘Be sure to brush in all the detail’. In the illustration, the entire kimono design is produced on a single sheet of paper. is suggests that the designer was commissioned to create a design that could be circulated either as a single-sheet woodblock print or an illustrated page in a kimono pattern book, because in the conventional binding method for Japanese books, two kimono designs would have been drawn on the same sheet, which was then folded for insertion into the book.

When the Meiji government was formed in 1868, the social hierarchy based on the four-tiered class system of samurai, farmer, artisan and merchant 59 Modernizing the Kimono 42 Yōshū Chikanobu, ‘Illustration of the Ladies’ Charity Bazaar at the rokumeikan’ (Rokumeikan ni oite kifujin jizenkai no zu), 1887, triptych of polychrome woodblock prints, ink and colour on paper. 41 Woman’s long-sleeved kimono (furisode) with flowing water and Western autumn flowers and plants design, previously owned by Mieko, second daughter of Prince takehito Arisugawa, c.

Or was the copy taken to a kimono maker who might produce a knock-off at a cheaper price? Did the merchant have a proprietary interest in or copyright to the images, or did he benefit in some way from their reproduction and circulation? e fact that the preface to this ‘Pattern Book for order Selections’ was written by Imura Katsukichi, possibly the same man who illustrated the previously described ‘Compendium of Patterns of our Country’, suggests that kimono patterns created or endorsed by noteworthy designers such as Imura 34 Interior of a dye house or kimono shop, two-page frontispiece from ‘Book of Custom-made Kimono Designs’ or ‘Pattern Book for order Selections’ (Chūmon no hinagata, 1716), preface by Imura Katsukichi (‘dyer artist’, somemono eshi), vol.

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Allure (May 2015)

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